ba 58 aircraft

Ba 58 Aircraft - The Sukhoi Su-17 (NATO reporting name: Fitter) is a Soviet swept-wing bomber developed from the Sukhoi Su-7. It enjoyed a long career in Soviet, then Russian service, and was widely exported as the Su-20 and Su-22 to the Eastern Bloc, the Arab Air Force, Angola and Peru. The designation Su-20/22 was mainly used to designate the Su-17 upgrade export aircraft with the M3/M4 subtypes being the last two batches.

This is the second box of the Kittyhawks 1/48 Su-17M3 / M4. The first publication dealt with fighters in Soviet service (designated Su-17) and this second publication covers several export operators of late model fighters (designated Su-22). The contents of both boxes appear to be identical, except for the decals and color schemes provided.

Ba 58 Aircraft

Like many previous KH releases, this pack seems to be a mixed bag. It looks great in the box, with sculpted surface detail, a generous selection of marking options and enough weapon options to choke a cow. My first instinct was to do a simple sprue review, but the first boxing made it through, and I've built enough KH kits to know that eating is the real proof. on the pig.

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With that in mind I've decided to try something a little different, which comes between the sprue review and the full build review. Something to show how the equipment behaved in real modeling situations, what problems occurred and how they could be overcome, either by me or by using an aftermarket kit. I really like dry fitting as a tool to get a feel for the model before applying glue, so I thought I'd expand the basic "dry fit" into a full dry build.

The aftermarket community has been busy establishing specifications and repairs for these accessories. While I won't be reviewing each of these, I think anyone reading this review can appreciate a summary of what's out there (at the time of writing):

The idea I had in mind for the 'dry build' was to do a literal dry fit using tape (and very little glue) to show as clearly as I could how the model fits when taken out of the box. and they bought together. I've laid out the sequence here to follow the KH instruction page, but that's just for fluency, I almost never follow the creators sequence in real life. Step 1 (not surprising) starts with an asana, so let's get started.

I've been on a pretty steady WW2 diet lately, and tackling a 20-program post alone was a wake-up call. I'm back in jet land now :) KH designed the parts so that any surface ejection pin marks would be hidden when assembled, so far so good. The plastic parts were easy to glue but when I got around to wrapping and installing the PE belt, the KH instructions weren't that helpful. In the end I did it myself and bent the straps as best I could.

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A fully assembled seat looks very convincing. It's actually one of the best kit seats I've seen in 1/48. To my eyes the head box looks a little big and the fit of the PE belt is not sure but that's just my personal preference.

For comparison, I grabbed two K-36 resin seats (Verlinden and Pawla) from my spares box and applied a coat of primer to all three seats. I think the KH chair is very malleable and is only made with the Neomega K-36 resin.

Once the seats are complete, the cockpit tub comes on and KH designed this as a separate module designed to fit between the fuselage halves. Since I plan to finish building this model at some point in the future, I still need to assemble the cockpit model enough (using glue) so that it is self-supporting but still open. enough to get to it easily. Get in down the tracks with my airbrush/paint brush.

The raised detail on the cockpit side console and side walls is nicely done. Kittyhawk provides decals for the console but not for the side walls. As you can see from the photo of the Polish Su-22, the edges of the switches on the sidewall are very visible. You can fix this by using one of the Eduard PE sets for the cockpit but of course it would have been better if KH had just supplied two more decals.

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I assembled the center part of the cockpit tub (floor, front and rear bulkhead) to make painting easier later. The control column looks correct (compared to reference photos). I chose to attach the fabric to the front lid this time although I plan to give it some canvas texturing before painting. One of the benefits of pre-fitting parts like this is that it helps you decide what can be glued before painting and what will be fine after painting.

Continuing with the cockpit construction we need to build the gun sight and HUD assembly and install the main instrument panel. Note that based on my testing, you can safely leave the IP and install it after the front cover since you have some wiggle room available.

The IP package provided appears to be correct for the Su-22M3 variant. The main thing missing for the M4 is the small TV display in the upper right corner as shown in the picture. This (I think) was used when flying guided missiles with a TV that sent camera video back to the pilot to help aim.

HK provides one decal piece for the IP which I personally would not use as it is often very difficult to match the decal color with the rest of the cockpit. I would either a) use all dials by punching or b) use an aftermarket dial (like Airscale) instead.

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If you do not want to build the TV display and its enclosure, Eduard comes to your rescue by offering three options according to the specific type (M3 / M4) and period (pre- and post-90s) of the aircraft that you are building. . Even if I don't intend to buy and use a specific Eduard set I always download their manual to see what details their extensive research has uncovered.

Each sub-part of the cockpit is easy to assemble when finished thanks to the alignment slots and tabs. All parts literally click together and once painted a very accurate replica of the Su-22 cockpit is created.

Step 4 involves building the engine. All Su-17 / 22M variants (M, M2, M3 and M4) were equipped with the Lyulka AL-21F-3 power plant. If you want to remove the rear tail section and expose the engine, the KH parts are a great base for detailing. I was not concerned about the careful assembly of all the engine parts as this would not be the case for my build. Actually I was only interested in the rear part as it will be visible on the finished model. Note that part C3 was incorrectly labeled as D18.

The fitment of the engine parts is top notch. The engine is designed in 3 sub-sections including the nozzle at the business end. I'm glad they gave you the afterburner tube kit as a separate part as it allows air pressure in from both ends before gluing.

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The nozzle is assembled from four sets of flanges attached to part D52 to ensure that the correct shape is maintained. Be very careful when cutting and cleaning the D99 part as you need the edges to be square as they are butt joints.

Using extra thin liquid glue I attached each nozzle petal in turn. I expected some struggle to get the parts into the correct round shape but was pleased when there was none. Part D52 did a great job of aligning everything properly once the glue was set. AMIGO MODELS (AMG48022-1) make a very nice set if you prefer to use resin replacements for nozzles and the rear of the engine. It seems to be readily available on eBay.

Step 5 in the instructions involves sandwiching the engine into the center fuselage section using two locating pins. Before I did this I decided to take a step back and look more closely at the rest of the fuselage to see if this really was the best way to go.

Kittyhawk is engineered into the fuselage

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